TREATING FLEAS
Fleas have a four-stage life cycle. Adult fleas lay slippery, pearl-like eggs that fall onto the floor or into the pet's bedding. Flea eggs hatch into larvae, which are very tiny and feed on microscopic debris and the droppings from adult fleas. The larvae don't like light so they will crawl under furniture and into closets. They need some moisture to survive and will live longer in carpeting or upholstery, which trap moisture, than on wood or linoleum.
The larvae feed for a while and then form cocoons or pupae, which remain dormant for days, weeks or months, until conditions are right and vibrations from movement stimulate them to hatch out into adult fleas.
To treat fleas effectively you need to break their life cycle in more than one place. Usually this is done by combining an insecticide, to kill adult and larval fleas, and a growth regulator, to prevent either the egg or cocoon stage from hatching out. Growth regulators are relatively new products on the market that have changed the way we deal with fleas. These products are called growth regulators. They are flea hormones, which don't kill adult fleas but break the life cycle by preventing flea eggs or pupae from hatching. These hormones have no effect on mammals, and thus no side effects or contraindications.
You may elect to have your house professionally exterminated, or you can treat your house yourself with a pump sprayer or an area spray and foggers. Before doing this, or before the exterminator arrives, vacuum your house thoroughly to remove as many eggs and pupae as possible.
Vacuuming does not kill them; so dispose of the vacuum bag after use. Also put all your washable bedding, especially your pet's bedding, in the wash.
After vacuuming, use your area spray or pump spray according to label directions.
When pump spraying, spray all floor surfaces, and beds and cushions as well. Don't forget to spray under furniture, the closets, the attic, and in the basement.
If you use foggers (“bombs”), you'll also need to spray closets, hallways and under furniture and cushions beforehand. Then use one fogger for each room in the house. Don't forget your basement and attic. Remember, fleas can hop anywhere in your house.
Set one fogger in the center of each room, off the ground on a box or stool. Put some newspapers under each can to catch any drips. Then set the foggers off one by one as you leave. All people and pets must be out of the house for several hours after fogging.
Foggers are not as convenient to use as other methods but they do a good job of spreading insecticide evenly and thoroughly. The most effective foggers contain growth regulators as well as insecticide.
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Please remember that only the adult flea and the larval stage can be killed by insecticides.Eggs and pupae are in protective shells. Fogs and sprays have a residual effect, so they will continue to kill fleas and their larvae as they hatch from eggs and pupae. However, cleaning, mopping, vacuuming and just walking around in your home all slowly remove the insecticide you have put down. Re-treatment may be necessary. We usually recommend re-spraying high traffic areas with an area spray one month after your original treatment, and again every month thereafter until a hard freeze kills off the flea population outside for the winter. If you live in a warm area of the country, year ‘round control may be necessary.
Also remember that the residual insecticide can take up to 48 hours to kill newly hatched adult fleas. Fleas can continue to hatch out daily for weeks after spraying and fogging. During this two-week hatching period, additional hand fogging or spraying may provide more immediate relief against the newly hatched fleas.
Any new fleas brought into the house from outside, via a person, your pet, mice, etc. can also take up to 48 hours to die. Do not think that your flea control products are not working if you continue to see fleas for several weeks after treating your house and pets. Often two house treatments 4-8 weeks apart are necessary to completely rid your house of fleas.
Occasionally flea eggs in cool corners, such as in the basement, can lie dormant for several months before hatching.
If your pet spends a lot of time outdoors, or lives in an outdoor kennel, or you live where it’s warm and humid most of the year, you may need to treat your yard.
As with indoor pets, the animal's bed is the most likely spot for flea larvae to hide. Spray the doghouse regularly and wash or change the bedding weekly. The other places you need to spray are the spots your animal lays in to get out of the sun. Flea larvae die in direct sunlight but survive for long periods in dark, damp, shady spots. Do not waste your time or money treating your entire back yard. The fleas and flea larvae are lurking in the shadows!
Many flea products sold in grocery and discount stores are a waste of your time and money. Some are even harmful to pets. Most compounds strong enough to be effective are sold only through licensed veterinarians and exterminators, who are properly trained in their use, and are regulated by the state and the EPA. Insecticides should be used only according to label directions. Care is needed to ensure that toxicity does not develop due to the concurrent use of other drugs, pesticides or chemicals, or because the compound used was not safe for a particular age or type of animal.
Fleas can usually be prevented by treating all pets that go outdoors so they don't bring reproducing fleas into the house. If you had fleas in previous years it is wise to spray some insecticide in the house as well, especially on the ground floor near doors and windows. This will kill the occasional flea that hops in on its own.
Some pet owners choose a long lasting flea ointment or spray to use on their pet to control fleas. New products are available that are waterproof for dogs who swim or are outdoors in the rain. Modern polymers enable some sprays and liquids to be effective for as long as 60 days.
Several different ointment type products are now available for both dogs and cats. These products are applied to a small area of skin and spread over the whole pet themselves. Some kill ticks as well as fleas and they can remain effective for 1 - 2 months.
Cats may prefer a flea mousse or powder. Cats often don’t like the sound of spray. For both dogs and cats, it is best to treat the face and head by spraying a sponge or cloth and then wiping the spray on, avoiding the eyes.
Flea shampoos and soaps are great for cleaning a dog or cat with fleas but they have no residual effect. They only kill fleas present on the pet at the time the bath is given. As soon as the animal dries off, fleas will hop right back on. For long-term control you need a product that stays in or on the body for days or weeks at a time.
Regular use of preventative flea products on pets helps to
prevent you from having to spend large sums of money on foggers and exterminators again next year! Treating a bad flea infestation in your house usually costs upwards of $150. A good bottle of flea spray costs about $12.If you had fleas this year, it is wise to spray the house monthly the next year as well, especially on the ground floor near doors and windows. This will kill the occasional flea that hops in from outside. If the fleas were in your yard this year, they are likely to be there again next year.
Be sure to start using flea products on all your pets that go outdoors as soon as the weather warms up in the spring, so they won't bring fleas back into your house and start the cycle all over again. Treat them all summer and late into the fall, until there are consistently freezing temperatures outside at night. Of course in warmer areas this may mean all year ‘round!
Please consult with your pet’s doctor before you begin any flea control program. There are so many products on the market nowadays that it's tough to decide which ones are right for you.
They are more than happy to help!
